Beyond The Headlines Of South Africa In The 1970s!

Wishing And Hoping…

I wished to know what all the fuss was about beyond the headlines of South Africa in the 1970s! Be careful what you wish for, I always say.

Wishing is not a bad thing – actually, it’s great. Just choose your wish carefully.
You never know how it could change your life until it has changed.

My Preconceptions Of South Africa In The 1970s!

I heard it was always warm, and lions and cougars roamed the streets.
You had monkeys for pets and a lemon tree grew in your front yard. This was just a rumor.

Nothing about South Africa was expected, and it was beyond my imagination. This was my husband’s homeland but he refused to answer any questions about where we were going.

What was the weather like? Explain the people and their dreams. Are fashions different?

What is the exchange rate for our dollar?
How will apartheid affect us? What’s a lychee?

“Wait until you get there” was his constant refrain.
We were two ordinary vanilla people who formed a union that would carry us through many adventures.

At the airport, tears and hugs were exchanged and I marveled … Couldn’t everyone picture the adventure in this? Couldn’t everyone see how exciting this was? … I was moving to Africa!

What the headlines told us was about the constant unrest…
Locusts eradicated maize harvests, and elephants stampeded the local feed store plaza.

In North America, we believed that no one went to Africa unless sponsored by OXFAM or the Little Sisters of Mercy.
In everyone’s eyes, I gained missionary status!

There Were Setbacks:

After a four-hour layover at Heathrow Airport, our plane was grounded “for safety reasons” …indefinitely! So fix it; we’ll wait... There was no fixing going on here.

This was 1973, and planes regularly fell out of the sky and hundreds of lives were lost.

Our tickets were honored. But, WE needed to find a plane that was flying very south, with two empty seats.

Here’s the scene: There were sanctions put on South Africa in the 1970s and their planes were not allowed to fly over Africa. The planes had to fly around the bulge of the continent, which juts west into the Atlantic Ocean.

This added 3 hours to an already long flight and, so far, this wasn’t making a good impression on me.

This also enabled us to board an 80%-empty South African Airways Boeing – the one that would “fly the bulge”. My mood was improving.

Other travelers were looking for faster routes, but due to some clever delving, this was the loophole. While other planes were full to capacity, we could sleep in the aisleways!

And sleep we did… The service was outstanding, the food was hot and there were no line-ups! I would recommend it!

South Africa In The 1970s Changed Me Forever!

It took fourteen hours to get to Durban, after flying the bulge and via South West Africa.(What is the best age to start traveling? Link)

In Durban, we spilled from the plane into the oppressive heat; it slapped me down!
This – my first impression of South Africa in the 1970s! – … They don’t believe in air conditioning, I observed.

It was meant to be hot, I get that, but this was beyond any of my expectations.
I felt wilted and weak – it sapped my energy.

But the sea views were beautiful and intoxicating. The foliage was exotic and tropical. People smiled everywhere – my eyes were round!

Welcome To The Sandbox of South Africa!

The white, sandy coastline did not disappoint, and beautiful beaches lined the country. They had names, and people had their favorites.

So this is Durban: South Africa’s gem of a playground! There were surfers and bikini-clad sun worshippers everywhere along the expansive beaches.

You could sear like an Ahi Tuna in about fifteen minutes if you weren’t careful
… but no one cared.

It was a Disney World for grownups. Amusement enveloped the whole city – I couldn’t wait to see it. It felt festive and safe.

The main thoroughfare was filled with bistros, shops, hotels, and restaurants. Buskers and mimes were everywhere.

There was lots of music and always the smell of food wafted in the air. I love to eat; this was working for me!

I took photos of a Zulu warrior with his rickshaw filled with the beautiful African jewelry he made.

He was decorated with horns, beads, and feathers. He had the brightest smile and was so pleased to be “key-keyed”!

Key-key is the Zulu word for “photo” – a replication of the sound the camera makes. Our cameras had film, and they “key-keyed” back then.

His Zulu wife stood nearby with a baby resting on her back. When I moved in to take her picture, she sat the little guy down to the side.

She stood dignified and upright, hands clasped to her chest, and smiled brightly.
This was her runway, and I enjoyed every bit of this pantomime.

Do Sharks Come With This Ocean?

I have an aversion to swimming in the ocean! I cannot relax in murky water.

On a Durban beach, I overheard swimmers bragging about how they swam out to the shark nets at sunrise! … SHARK NETS? …
What was that?

Oh, yes … BIG surprise! Shark nets. Nothing screams fun in the sun like a barrier that keeps you from becoming chum! – (see what I did?)

This was an eco-friendly way to keep sharks away and not interrupt their migration routes. Oh, but don’t you worry – They cleverly used the nets as shark-speak! The sharks understood.

Apparently, sharks swim in patterns and a grid of their patterns is set up with nets, a long way from the shore. This roadblock of a grid prevents the sharks from
a-c-c-i-d-e-n-t-l-y swimming onto the beaches, thereby annoying the bathers!
… Thus – shark nets!

But What If… …

I did hear that occasionally a shark MIGHT have a GPS malfunction, and sneak past this grid if he was confused while in the migration pattern.

Since the shark net “bather protection barrier” was first erected in 1956, only 27 shark attacks have been recorded on that coastline in 67 years – None fatal!

This is small compensation if you lost a leg, but unprotected beaches are posted as such. That’s where you swim at your own risk.

I maintained my stance at the knee-deep level, where I could see the bottom… just in case a shark decided to take a detour and come for me.

Who knew that sharks have a predictable swimming pattern?
I did not believe in this concept… I did not even give it a chance… I stayed out of the ocean. Thank you, Steven Spielberg.

Go North Young Lady!

We had to get from Durban on the coast, to Pretoria, 500 miles away and 60 km north of Johannesburg.

I wanted this traveling lifestyle to work for me. For now, I was agog at how the wheels turned.

Then, I noticed something I had forgotten about. They were driving on the wrong side of the road, which I had to learn… But not on this trip!

We drove to Pretoria in a car that was loaned to us. While we were very grateful, there was no air conditioning in this vehicle! It also had black leather seats! … Sheesh!

Although the heat was oppressive, the humidity disappeared as we went inland… it was just SO hot and dry! With the windows down and the wind whipping around us, I shed 2 pounds on the drive!

And what a drive it was…

The countryside was beautiful with miles of open farmland. The landscape was dotted with small tribal homesteads built on little hills. The children played while herding cattle and sheep.

The Karoo farmlands in the Orange Free State rear the best lamb in the world! There is an organic-fresh smell in the air. The little bushes that the sheep graze on are herb plants… the lamb is freshly seasoned from the inside!

Beautiful purple Jacaranda trees lined the streets of the towns!
I am showing off – I had never heard of a Jacaranda before.

While they are beautiful, they are super messy and the petals are slippery to walk on.
Suicide sidewalk the elderly call it.

If you park under a Jacaranda, you will leave with a “sap film”
on your car which is difficult to wash off. Your windshield will appear opaque.

It was all very nice, but I could not wait to plunge into someone’s pool.
This introduction to oppressive and constant heat was crippling for me.

So… NO jungles in the city, no cougars on the streets… no swinging from tree vines – I would love to try that!
I know I hear you … But Tarzan and Jane, they were mythical people! There, I said it… Sorry! … It’s better you know this now.

For me, this was a new life, new customs, and major adaptations. I was scared!

Discovering Pretoria’s Warmth And Charm!

In 1973 my first impression of Pretoria was the city’s sprawl-like size. It was separated by hills and ridges with a population of 600,000 people.

This was significant because I grew up in a small town in southern Ontario. The area is as flat as a billiard table except for a highway overpass.

Despite the size, the mood in Pretoria was never hurried; it was lazy, laid-back,
and hot.

Most Pretorians were born and educated there. People KNEW each other; there was a treasure trove of connections and there was a friendly vibe in the air.

I always felt welcome! This was a great place for a young person to live!

Sacrificing the shark-infested ocean for the beautiful Transvaal weather – and lots of inviting swimming pools – worked for me… I could forget about the shark nets for a while.

The first 2 months in Pretoria, we stayed in a residential hotel and I developed a rapport with Sylvia, our chambermaid. I wanted to bridge the gap between our worlds. Her English was so good!

I tried to explain that Canada had summer too and was not buried under 5 feet of snow all year round. We could even grow food … I pled my case.

Sadly, this was not Sylvia’s concept of Canada and her skepticism was glaringly obvious: “Summer in Canada, and sometimes no snow? – Impossible!
Oh no, Cooks, that place is colder than an icebox”!

I never mentioned this before, but my nickname, Cookie, was my only name for 43 years. I use my real name, Corinne, now too; I answer to both.

Despite my inability to bridge any gaps, Sylvia holds a special place in my heart. I later learned that she spoke her own language, several dialects, and Afrikaans as well.

And, Sylvia says it’s typical and expected among Africans.
That’s why unilinguals are called North Americans.

These Are The Kind Of People You Will Meet!

By the following weekend, we were introduced to company members and their families.

Their whole interview of us was conducted outside around the swimming pool and “braai” – the common term for barbeque. All very laid back and informal.

Even though this was predominantly an Afrikaans area, everyone appeared frightfully British, and they had refinement in their manners.

It seemed as if they had attended a lifetime of etiquette classes. They must have been born with pinkies permanently raised. Babies ate with monogrammed spoons – even their dogs were courteous!

If we mentioned any old joke, they genuinely laughed – I thought they were just being polite … but everything we said was new to them.
Apparently … I had an accent!

I savored my perfectly cooked burger and realized I had found my tribe.
These were people who not only knew how to work hard but also how to grill hard.
I vowed to spend time with them and to eat outside whenever I could.

I wished that their refined British manners would rub off on me; they could teach me how to become a braai master with an easy and genuine laugh.

You Will Love The Children

Coming from the West, where every five-year-old wants to be 15, I was amazed by South African children. Childhood meant everything and a 9-year-old was nine for one whole year!

Children did not leap into the future; they stayed in the moment and enjoyed the 365 days allotted to them.

From a young age, they acted responsibly and were ready to own up to their actions. They understood leadership and were great decision-makers.

They had beautiful manners and when they walked into a room they greeted everyone and shook hands! I loved having the children in our company.

I was introduced as their Auntie. I was Tannie Cooks now!
The parents said this is how they were raised. Tradition reigned.

In most rural schools and some urban schools, kids could attend in their bare feet up to a certain grade. (link: Zola Budd barefoot runner)

If I was a kid, this would be cool.
Hence the joke, “When did you start wearing shoes?”

And Never The Olympics!

Generally speaking, these people missed out on nothing. They had Kayalami Formula One Racing and FIFA; they had tennis and rugby. In every sport, the international greats were there, but it was not recognized and often discounted in World League Tournaments.

In 1964, the IOC banned South Africa from participating in the Tokyo Olympics, followed by the 1968 Mexico City Summer Olympics. South Africa was expelled from the Olympic Games in 1970.

These sanctions personally hurt each South African more than anything else ever could, and their constant refrain was that sports and politics should not mix.

Sports around here were a beloved pastime within a sports-mad society!
They KNEW that they could rival the whole world in any category.

Today, 30 years after apartheid, all that has changed, and sports are better represented than ever.

In 1993, Jacqui Mofokeng was the first black Miss South Africa! This simple gesture changed the country forever. (Jacqui Mofokeng: Miss South Africa)

They Looked Like Movie Stars!

These people could eat so much and represent the citizenship so well; you rarely saw a person who was overweight. People were into athletics and were in great shape.

They played every outdoor sport there was, rode motorcycles and horses, and sailed their ships. After all that exertion, they loved to cook, and eat!

There was no end to fresh food and rare delicacies, and these were freely available.
Men made their sausage, wine, beer, and beef jerky to die for! The women baked paella and used saffron for seasoning. This worked for me!

The ones who followed tradition were the “catches” among Afrikaners. Young people took pride in being self-sufficient, and there was nothing nerdy about hunting, cooking, or learning from your elders.

The pioneer habits were still in use, and every young couple was expected to know enough to live off the land if necessary.

These people made me feel secure, and if there was an apocalypse, I wanted them to understand that I was on their side! Then I knew I would survive.

Have you made the transition from your homeland to another country?
You must have visited places that have left a mark on you…

Please share your experiences with me in the comment box below.
I would love to hear from you and I will reply within 24 hours.

Regards, Corinne

PS: I invite you to follow my journey in this, my South Africa series.
My next post will be about celebrating Christmas in high summer in South Africa.

In following posts, I will tell you how I drove on the wrong side of the road, and the sports that I tried to master.
The advent of TV in 1976 was a turning point for the country!
And wait until you hear about their customs … you won’t believe it! 🙂

Regards, Corinne :-)))